He succeeded his brother Mongke as the ruler of the empire that their grandfather Jenghiz Khan had founded. Koublai Khan, 1215-94, was a Mongol emperor, founder of the Yüan dynasty of China. *The painting is An Amazon, by Franz von Stuck. Fearless En Avion left behind her classy upbringing and eloped with Koublai Khan, while Vol de Nuit stayed at home, met her pilot and we all know the rest of the story. All I know, there is something a little dirty and sensual in this fragrance, but that sensuality is suppressed. Perhaps it is jasmine playing its cruel indole game with me again. Think Muscs Koublai Khan's very distant relative. Think En Avion's prettier gentler younger sister. It feels almost wrong that Vol de Nuit, this incredibly romantic story of love, is animalic on my skin. Vol de Nuit was named after Antoine de saint Exupery’s novel, in which a pilot loses the control of his plane, while his newly wed wife is in the control tower, desperately waiting for any signs of life from his aircraft. There must be some connection there, but it eludes me. Vol Nuit is yet another aviation-related scent that I find to have animal accords. Not entirely unpleasant, weirdly captivating, En Avion is one of the most unusual perfumes I have ever tried. It is not as wild as in the former but it sure is there. The same “circus smell” as in Koublai Khan hit me when I first tried En Avion. The official list of notes (“Orange tree, rose, jasmine, carnation…Totally new balance of rich flowers on a dry, spicy, wooded base.”) does not mention any animalic notes, but they are there, to my nose.
That would be a union made in horse-riding barbarian steppe heaven. In fact, a woman wearing En Avion would be a great match for someone who wears Muscs Koublai Khan. Spade and especially about a Greek goddess wearing this, but that is definitely what an Amazon might smell like. According to Caron, En Avion was created as a homage to the first women of the skies (Adrienne Bolland, Hélène Boucher and Maryse Bastié), the adventurous ones, the ones who braved the elements.Īfter sampling En Avion, I am not convinced about future Mrs. He also describes this perfume as Olympian and suitable for an Amazon. Luca Turin’s description of En Avion in his Le Guide, as a fragrance fit for Sam Spade’s fiancée intrigued me enormously. Helmut Lang is very wearable, rather discreet, with just a hint of a hungry sexy predator lurking beneath the very contemporary minimalistic surface.
#Royal crown musk ubar skin#
There is a “skin accord” among the official notes, and, whatever that may be, I bet you that is what makes this sleek, clean, modern eau de parfum smell on my skin like an unwashed Mongol warrior. The indescribable nameless animalic note is super light here, but it is still present.
A pale, androgynous cousin many times removed but still somehow reminiscent of that dirty naughty Koublai Khan of Lutens fame. That is not to say that I don’t like this fragrance I find it repulsive and irresistible at the same time, just like I cannot get enough of Muscs Koublai Khan, the fragrance that first opened my eyes to the wonders of all things musk and animalic.Īnother relation of Koublai’s, very distant this time.
This “three headed dog from Hades” note in Vine somewhat obscures all that is ambrosial about it. To stay in the vein of Greek mythology, that animalic accord is perhaps the smell of Cerberus sent by his master to stealthily follow Persephone it is hard to believe that she could have stayed oblivious to his musc-y, wet, sweetly repulsive odour. Vine is all of those things, but what is strangely invisible in the description of the fragrance is a very noticeable animalic accord that is persistently there through the two thirds of the fragrance development and only gets less noticeable (but never disappears completely) in the drydown, where Vine is all sweet fruits and thick dark wine. I am also unable to resist the words like “whispering decadence”, “ambrosial” and “poised”. It is easy to lure me with the promise of a Greek myth, wine and pomegranates.
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